"Ooo, it’s just like something out of Jane Austen!” exclaims the bride-to-be as we roll down the drive and circle to a stop outside the stone porch.

And as we take in the magnificent stately home, set in sweeping parkland and proudly overlooked by its own church, towers and follies, we do seem to instantly retreat from the 21st century.

Fed up with increasingly far-flung, hectic hen parties requiring several days’ annual leave, our cosy group of eight has booked into Hartwell House near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, for some much needed relaxing and pampering. With its hearty fires, sumptuous meals and blissful adjacent spa, we couldn’t have made a more perfect choice.

Within minutes of arrival, we are nestled into a cluster of enormous sofas in an elegant drawing room, tucking into a champagne lunch. In this room, it’s easy to imagine ourselves in the company of royalty, as Hartwell’s past residents include the exiled King Louis XVIII of France, who took refuge there in the early 1800s.

Hartwell is an intriguing house, with an intoxicating mix of Jacobean and Georgian features inviting close scrutiny. Even the simple act of finding the loo proves an adventure, as we need to follow a labyrinth of cubbyholes and are waylaid at every other step by a fresh find.

Bedrooms are reached via a centuries-old staircase in the Great Hall, where extraordinary carved gargoyles peer down at guests. These prove quite disturbing later on when, after a spooky late-night chat over coffee, we have to pass their creepy faces on the way to bed!

Our attic room, although vast, retains a countrified cosiness. Otherwise impressive boasts such as a walk-in wardrobe and massive en-suite come a distinct second to the quaint window seats offering unspoilt views across the park.

A curtained door leads to a rooftop courtyard; not quite private but accessed by only a handful of rooms. It’s a shame that a determined drizzle marks our entire stay, otherwise our early morning tea would be served out here.

After lunch we make towards the Old Dairy, a converted outbuilding now snugly housing the spa. My Indian head massage expertly peels away the stresses of a busy week, while other treatments, such as the Detox Body Wrap and reflexology, restore other members of our group to an equally blissed-out state.

The rest of the afternoon is then ours to swim, steam and sauna to our hearts’ content. The pool itself is spectacular - Romanesque and, unlike many spa pools, large enough to actually swim in but managing to retain an aura of luxury rather than demanding a stern workout.

Much refreshed by the spa, not to mention a quick champagne toast to our hen, we make our way to dinner. A pianist, playing in an alcove as we arrive, sets the tone for a lazy evening of wine and girly chat, perforated only by tantalisingly-presented dishes.

I start with the pan-fried goats cheese terrine, followed by a perfectly tender loin of lamb complemented with a basil mousse and plum vine tomato. As for dessert, we spend ages agonising over options such as caramelised fig tarte tatin and orange soufflé, only to end up digging our spoons into each other’s choices and thus sampling a selection.

The persistent rain the next morning confines all but the bravest of our group to a fire-warmed lounge with the Sunday papers and board games, although a selection of umbrellas, Wellies and raincoats are available for guests keen for a bracing walk.

All too soon it’s time to head home, but this magnificent estate is determined to have the last word. As we drive towards the main gates along a narrow lane, we cross a high-walled bridge topped with chessboard figures.

It’s too late to turn around and ask who put them there and why – but it sums up a glorious, fascinating retreat.


GETTING THERE

Hartwell House is owned by Historic House Hotels. Room rates start at £160 for a single room or £290 for a double, rising to £490 for a Royal four-poster bedroom and £650 for a suite. Sunday night rates and last-minute offers are available.

Hartwell House: 01296 747444
www.hartwell-house.com
www.historichousehotelspas.com