1  Tiananmen Square
The gigantic concrete desert in the centre of the Chinese capital is one of the most bizarre tourist attractions in the world. The brutal event for which it’s most famous is never, ever discussed – even by the most relaxed tour guides – and the constant, aggressive marching of People’s Liberation Army troops and vast numbers of plain-clothes police make the eery silence about the student demonstrations of 1989 even more poignant.

Chinese from across the country make this their first port of call when visiting the capital so it is constantly buzzing with people posing for endless photographs, flying kites or just watching the constant parade of personalities.

It’s the largest square in the world, some 440,000 square metres, and the huge portrait of Chairman Mao, who designed the square as a tribute to the enormity of communism, is breathtaking in itself, as are the grey façades of the government buildings which line it.

But it is the unspoken memory of the thousands of brave people who died pointlessly that makes Tiananmen such a moving place.

For the Olympics it will be a colourful place too. The Chinese, ironically, want the square to be all about fun. Dozens of small, green gardens and pretty ornamental ponds have been installed, with grinning officials handing out bright Beijing 2008 flags on every corner. Temporary grandstands have been erected for August overlooking Mao Zedong’s  tomb. Even the Olympic marathon, in which Paula Radcliffe is going for gold for Britain, will start from here. 

2  Forbidden City
The stunning imperial palace complex, former home to the great dynasties of China, was off limits to commoners for half a millennium. Poke around the hundreds of intricate wooden buildings and halls dating back to the early 1400s, which inspired much of East Asia’s iconic architecture.

The treasures, carvings and inscriptions are endlessly fascinating, and the 50ft walls – which almost cut out the sound of modern Beijing – make it feel like you’ve stepped back in time.

The scale is breathtaking – 200,000 workers built the City and 9,000 servants, concubines and guards worked here, all of them carefully avoiding the smooth stone walkway out of deference to the ruling family. Fans of The Last Emperor, which won nine Oscars, will immediately recognise the spectacular backdrop to Pu Yi’s last days in power.

3  Great Wall of China
Mao Zedong said: “He who has not climbed the Great Wall is not a true man,” and there’s no escaping the challenge. You just can’t visit China without scaling its most famous landmark. The Great Wall, which dates from the 5th century BC under the Qin Dynasty, took almost 2,000 years to complete and is a staggering 4,000 miles long – but the best-restored sections lie just 30 miles or so north-west of Beijing.

Originally, it was a network of smaller walls, built to protect regions of Mongolia and northern China from nomads. But over time the wall evolved, becoming a mountain highway for trade – parts of the western wall even took in the Silk Route. The myths abound, but it can’t really be seen from the Moon and while up to three million men died building it, their bones weren’t used to bind the wall together. Head for Badaling, the northern pass, where the energetic can climb 2,000 or so slippery steps for a spectacular view of Beijing.

4  Beijing Pearl Market
Once the traditional sights have exhausted you, it’s time for retail therapy. The Hongqiao (Pearl) Market is a vibrant, colourful mish-mash of excitable locals, stunning jewellery, intricate Chinese carvings and absolute tat.

As a foreigner you’re the star of the show and you’re just as likely to be hassled to buy a cheap fake Rolex or a pack of Chairman Mao playing cards as a £300 pearl necklace.

Dash past the oceans of cheap pearls to Sharon’s Store on the top floor which boasts Bill Clinton, Laura Bush and Condoleezza Rice as clients. The only freshwater pearls still farmed in the world – from Guangdong province – are in plentiful supply here, as are a range of more exotic and expensive alternatives, white and black, from Tahiti and beyond.

Hand-pick yours for a bespoke necklace or bracelet to be made on site, and then get stuck into the haggling. The vendors are friendly and some speak English, but all will overcharge and will expect an argument. So don’t disappoint.

5  Hutong Tour
Amid the gleaming hotels, skyscrapers and shopping centres of modern Beijing, it’s easy to forget that 15 million people live here. The distinctive Hutong, an intricate network of alleyways crammed with houses built around courtyards and tiny shops and bars, remains the true face of the city, although many have been bulldozed to make way for the Olympics.

It’s enchanting to just get lost wandering through the jumbled streets as locals whizz by on bikes, seemingly unaware of the charming hotchpotch around them. In fact, the best way to explore the Hutong is by rickshaw.

As the urban planning of the city expands, the incongruity is striking. Ancient walled courtyards jostle for space with faceless, grim apartment blocks. The number of Hutongs in Beijing is dwindling all the time, but there are still nearly a thousand, so it’s a good idea to pre-book a guided tour.

GETTING THERE

Emirates Tours (0844 800 1400/ www.emiratestours.co.uk) offers an eight-night tailormade trip to China from £2,450pp (two sharing).

Price includes four nights at the Shangri-La Kerry Centre in Beijing, two nights at the Pudong Shangri-La in Shanghai, two nights at the Shangri-La Golden Flower in Xian, return Emirates flights from London (via Dubai), internal flights, private car transfers, English-speaking guides and most meals.

China National Tourist Office: 020 7373 0888/ www.cnto.org.uk